Octopus Salad with Citrus and Fennel

With this post I inaugurate Citrus Week (blog or not blog, you should know that behind the scenes I now have some difficulties closing the fridge, due to an undefined quantity of navel oranges, kara kara oranges, pomelos (hey, you know pomelos? they're as big as basketballs!), lemons, sweet lemons, blood oranges, yellow and pink grapefruit, tangerines, and tangelos. And I'm not kidding, which is nothing short of alarming...., but this uh .. well let's call it professional deformation would be subject for another post, and here I prefer to ignore it, even if the space for comments is always available below, in case you want to offer advices and suggestions on so-called infallible therapies, relieving mantras and/or DIY remedies.
We were saying, Citrus Week, in order to inflict oneself 7 days full of vitamins and to resign more or less happily to a winter that doesn't want to go away. To make things a little more classy (yes, I mean, I have a reputation to defend...), I went and fished out - I mean, literally - an old friend. Same fishmonger, same frozen octopus, same nightmare.
Winter is back even at these latitudes, demanding some justice. Let's surrender this way.


Octopus Salad
with Citrus and Fennel
for 4

whole octopus, cleaned 1 of about 3 lb
onion 1
carrot 1
celery 1 stalk
bay leaf 1
fennel 1 large or 2 smaller ones
mixed citrus as needed
(I've used a yellow grapefruit and 3 different types of oranges)
olive oil, salt, pepper, fennel leaves to taste

For the octopus, first I'd like to tell you that the second time around is much easier: you go to sleep and you almost forget that you left a shapeless creature to thaw in the sink. In the morning, with a little effort, it's even possible to feel the tentacles and check their tenderness while sipping coffee. And with the second cup you even get to chat, with the octopus, just like that, talking about the weather, taking the opportunity to apologize and to feel at peace with yourself. But we're digressing, this is material for another post, or even another blog (how about The Adventures of Superblogger? or The Spaghetti Chronicle? or perhaps The Good, the Bad and the Ugly?)... HELP!!

Bring to a boil a large pot of lightly salted water, season it with a bay leaf, the carrot, the onion and a stalk of celery, all cleaned and cut into large pieces, then put in the octopus perfectly thawed (btw, if you find it fresh, go ahead, and then maybe you'll tell me how to clean it while drinking coffee...). When it returns to boil, cover the pot and simmer for about an hour (cooking time varies depending on the size of the octopus; to check if it's ready and sufficiently tender, just lift it from the water and stick a tentacle with a knife, it should give up easily). Turn off the heat and let it cool in the same cooking water.
Meanwhile, clean the fennel and cut it into thin slices using a mandolin. Peel the citrus fruits , removing the white membrane, cut them into wedges, and collect the juice in a separate bowl. For the dressing, to the juice of oranges and grapefruits add few tablespoons of olive oil, salt and pepper, and some lemon juice if you'd like.
Mix fennel, citrus and octopus, cut into pieces, season with the dressing and sprinkle with a pinch of minced fennel leaves.

Coconut Shrimps

BUBBA: Anyway, like I was sayin', shrimp is the fruit of the sea. You can barbecue it, boil it, broil it, bake it, saute it. Dey's uh, shrimp-kabobs, shrimp creole, shrimp gumbo. Pan fried, deep fried, stir-fried. There's pineapple shrimp, lemon shrimp, coconut shrimp, pepper shrimp, shrimp soup, shrimp stew, shrimp salad, shrimp and potatoes, shrimp burger, shrimp sandwich. That's... that's about it.
(M. Williamson, Forrest Gump; if you care for the Italian version, look here)

Bubba knew everything about shrimps. Back home, his Mum would make shrimps, his Gran'ma would make shrimps, his Gran-Gran'ma would make shrimps, and Bubba was dreaming of going himself in the shrimp business the day the war would be over.

Too bad that the Italian version didn't like Bubba's shrimps that much. Both coconut shrimps and pineapple shrimps have been deleted from the Bubba-menu and changed into scrambled shrimps and shrimps with potatoes, respectively. Probably back in 1994 they thought that Italian taste was not ready for coconut shrimps and pineapple shrimps, but I still have one question though: these scrambled shrimps, what the hell are they?
I think that not even Bubba, or Bubba's Gran'ma, would be able to answer.


Baked Coconut shrimps
for 4

large shrimps 12
eggs 2
bread crumbs, grated dried coconut
salt, sugar, cayenne pepper, orange powder to taste

Before the "recipe" I have a confession to make. I have a feeling that when talking about coconut shrimps, Bubba meant fried shrimps, the ones with a greasy and crunchy crust that leaves you licking your fingers. But how could you arrange fried stuff with a mini-kitchen like mine? You can't, period. Therefore let's just give up and get over it with a couple of baked shrimps. But if you wish to indulge yourself with the fried shrimp, please do!
In a bowl, lightly beat the eggs with a pinch of salt and a pinch of cayenne pepper. In another bowl, mix half a cup of dried grated coconut with three tablespoons of bread crumbs (I - not really very accidentally - had Panko, the Japanese style used for tempura, ever tried it?), add a pinch of salt, sugar and orange powder (totally optional, but since our conversation had ended right there...).
Clean shrimps, discarding the shell and the black vein, and roll them first in the egg and then in the coconut mixture. Place them on a baking pan lined with parchment paper and bake them at 425 for about 15 minutes, turning them once about half way through. Let them cool down before serving.

Mussels Salad with Coconut-Lime Dressing

...or Give Mussels a Chance. Let's admit that you don't like them cooked in the simplest possible way, like these ones, and let's also admit that you're still in doubts regarding their sex appeal. Well, then try giving mussels a second chance and preparing them in a slightly different way: I guarantee that coconut, lime and chili peppers will be a pleasant surprise.

This recipe, with a definite Thai flavour, comes from Bitten, the NY Times food blog by Mark Bittman, aka The Minimalist, the man behind the famous No-Knead Bread, to get you the idea.
And as if the recipe wasn't enough fusion on its own, I tried making it with some alternative mussels that I happened to find at the market: some giant New Zealand mussels with a characteristic bright green shell, so beautiful that it's almost a shame to throw it away at the end of your lunch.

In general, I'm not a big fan of bean sprouts, even though they're widely used in health-conscious California. Best case scenario, I find them too bitter, but maybe it's me that haven't been able to decipher them yet. And yet, they go well here, at least because of the contrast between their oblong shape, like that of spaghetti, and the curves of cucumber and mussels ; )
The best thing of this salad, though, is the dressing (which I've officially adopted for future dishes). It doesn't matter that the coconut milk comes from a can and that the lime grew up not far away from here. All it takes is a little imagination and you find yourself swinging inside a hammock in the middle of an exotic beach. Now, tell me something, is it that strange that in August I long for the sea???


Mussel Salad
with Coconut-Lime Dressins
for 2 people

fresh mussels 1 lb.
coconut milk about 1/4 cup
lime 1
Thai fish sauce 2 or 3 tablespoons
fresh Thai chilies 2
(but, come on, any kind of chili works as well) 2
fresh cilantro to taste
red bell pepper 1
cucumber 1
bean sprouts not too many...

In a bowl, mix coconut milk, 2 tablespoons of lime juice, its grated zest, minced Thai chilies and fish sauce (just so you know, fish sauce is a very common ingredient in Thai cooking, it's sort of an anchovies extract and it is used instead of salt).
Cut bell pepper in cubes. Peel the cucumber and cut it into pieces. Add bean sprouts.
Clean the mussels, discard their beard and rinse them thoroughly under cold running water. Heat a large pan, put in the mussels with a couple of tablespoons of water, cover with a lid and cook for few minutes, shaking the pan now and then. Take out the mussels as soon as they open and discard those that stay closed. Take them out of their shell and add them to the vegetables.
Cooking it on high heat, reduce the juice they left behind, then add few tablespoons to the dressing. Pour dressing over the salad, mix well, add some freshly minced cilantro and serve.

Mussels with White Wine Sauce

I raise here my protest in defense of mussels. Would someone please explain how it began the bad reputation that afflicts them? Ugly as a mussel. Excuse me, could you please repeat? (Ugly as a mussel is a common Italian expression, and it's used only for women, of course....)
Rumour has it that it's the freshly caught mussels that are ugly. Is that true? Who knows. Unfortunately I've never had the pleasure of seeing them. And I really wish that in this precise moment, instead of publishing useless bloggish lucubrations putting up with my monitor's blue radiations, again, I wish I could close my eyes and find myself sitting outdoors at the pier of a remote Mediterranean island, watching the fishermen coming back from the sea and exchanging opinions on their black haul.

And then, mussels may not be really beautiful right after being caught, but tell me the truth, who feels at their best in the morning right after waking up, before coffee, make-up, hair fixing and manicure?
Black-purplish shell, bright concentric veins and pearly inside. I bet you're already reconsidering them. Soft and seductive body. Perfect black-orange color pairing, to such an extent that one would think Domenico e Stefano (aka Dolce & Gabbana) didn't create anything new. And then mussels are too much fun: so easy and fast to cook, they always make an impression. Even as simple as these ones, that go only with their own juice and two slices of toasted bread.
You're ugly and mean as a mussel. I beg your pardon?


Mussels with White Wine Sauce
for 2 people

fresh mussels 1 lb.
white wine about 1/2 cup
olive oil, garlic, shallot, salt, pepper, parsley, butter

Clean the mussels, discard the beard and brush them very well. Transfer to a large bowl and mix them with one tablespoon olive oil, salt, pepper, minced parsley, one garlic clove, thinly sliced, and a little bit of minced shallot (optional).
Heat a large pan on the stove and when it's really hot pour the mussels with all their dressing in it. Shake the pan for few seconds, add the wine and cover immediately with a lid. Cook at high heat for 2 or 3 minutes, until mussels start to open. As soon as they open, take them out of the pan and transfer to a serving bowl. Discard the ones that didn't open. Add a tablespoon of butter to the leftover juice, reduce by cooking it for few minutes. Pour juice over the mussels and serve them with slices of toasted bread.

Avocado, Mango and Shrimp Salad

How delicious avocado is! I certainly list it among the best contributions of California to modern society, along with Apple, Levi's and Brad Pitt. Who cares if neither Brad Pitt nor avocados are originally from California, that is just a subtlety. California owns about 80% of US avocado market and fruits grown here are available 12 months a year. Sweet! As for Brad Pitt, do I need to say more?

Browsing the net, I found out that the name comes from Spanish explorers who ventured in Central America. Since they weren't able to pronounce Aztec word ahuacatl, they called it aguacate, from which comes the word guacamole. The most curious thing is that the Aztec ahuacatl meant testicle, and the fruit was called that way because of its shape....!!??!!? I'd say.....let's discuss this!

Even mangos, which are available in produce stores all year round, are one of the reasons why I can forgive this part of the world for not having a decent pizza and for having crafted a pink salad dressing.
Mango is delicious by itself, but I also love it in savory dishes. It's very nice in chicken sandwiches, great in Mexican salsa, or even as a side for certain types of fish and crustaceans.

But avocado and mango together, they are a blessing! Maybe it's because they have a very similar shape, or because they both have a large pit inside, or maybe it's their pastel color, I don't know, but to me they are simply made for each other. In short, almost like me and Brad Pitt....


Mango, Avocado & Shrimp Salad
for 4 people

ripe avocado 2
mango 1
shrimp 8
lime 2
shallots 2 or 3
salt, pepper, olive oil, fresh cilantro

Clean the shrimps, removing their head and taking them out of the shells. Discard the black vein, but leave the tail. Or, do like I did and buy them already cleaned ; )
Steam them for few minutes until they turn a nice pink color. Cool down by placing them on some ice cubes, and set aside.
Peel the mango and cut it into small cubes. Cut avocados in half, discard the pit and scoop out the inside, leaving some of the pulp attached to the edges of the skin. Cut the flesh in small cubes and add them to the mango along with the shrimps. Dress with lime juice, sliced shallots, salt, pepper and olive oil to taste.
Place salad inside the reserved avocado shells, sprinkle with minced cilantro and serve immediately.